Castillo Pittamiglio • Arquitetura e Alquimia

Imagine visitar um castelo construído no coração de Montevideo há mais de cem anos por um alquimista? Esse lugar existe, eu pude conhecê-lo e agora vou mostrar tudinho aqui, num post recheado de fotos e informações. Se prepare para descobrir os segredos do Castillo Pittamiglio!

Acho que nem cheguei a contar aqui, mas quem me segue no Instagram viu que fui conhecer o Uruguay, o primeiro país latino que visitei {além do Brasil, como o Rômulo fez questão de apontar, haha}. Acabei passando uma semana por lá, dividindo o tempo entre três cidades: Montevideo, Punta del Este e Colonia del Sacramento. Achei o país muito charmoso e fiquei bem surpresa com as diferenças culturais, afinal, o país fica tão pertinho do nosso e mesmo assim tem diferenças consideráveis. Foi uma viagem deliciosa e aproveitei cada segundo dela com meu noivo e minha família. Na verdade estou bem atrasada com o post, pois já faz muito tempo que fiz essa viagem, mas estava revendo algumas fotos e não pude deixar de compartilhar aqui esse lugar incrível que descobri.

 

 Descobrindo os arredores

Enquanto pesquisava lugares interessantes para conhecer, obviamente o Castillo Pittamiglio logo chamou minha atenção: não conheço nada de Alquimia, mas amo tudo que seja ligado ao místico e à simbologia, por isso logo tratei de marcar o local como visita obrigatória. Bom, o fato de ser um castelo também chamou minha atenção por que né, quem não ama castelos? Sou apaixonada por arquitetura e um lugar singular como esse é bem a minha cara.

black wasabi castillo pittamiglio 24

O Castillo fica no bairro de Punta Carretas, bem de frente à orla do Río de la Plata. Chegamos bem cedo no local, então fomos almoçar e aguardamos até o horário da visita. Passeamos na orla {eu juro que ainda fico chocada quando lembro que aquilo é um rio e não o oceano} e aproveitamos a vista – o bairro lá é uma delícia, com várias opções de restaurantes. Comi um gnocchi maravilhoso, tomei um rosê e conheci esse castelo gracinha, então eu lembro desse dia com muito carinho.

 

Sobre o criador

Humberto Ponciano Pittamiglio Bonifacio nasceu em 19 de Novembro de 1887, em uma modesta família de imigrantes italianos. Sempre muito elogiado por sua inteligência e desempenho acadêmico, graduou-se como Arquiteto e Engenheiro e começou a trabalhar em uma das maiores construtoras do país, onde viria a se tornar sócio com o passar dos anos.

Humberto iniciou o projeto do castelo a partir de sua casa na rua Francisco Vidal, adquirindo vários terrenos adjacentes para sua expansão, até chegar na orla. A construção iniciou-se em 1910 continuou até 1966, o ano de sua morte. Até este dia dissera que o castelo não havia ficado pronto, sendo isso um conceito da alquimia e da própria construção {que é inspirada em um barco}, pois a vida nada mais é que uma viagem sem fim.

Algumas das lendas que pairam sobre o local é que aconteciam reuniões e orgias satânicas durante as madrugadas, que o criador saía de noite vestido de uma capa vermelha, caminhando pela orla e {a minha favorita!} que o Santo Graal ficou escondido no castelo de 1944 a 1956. Não tinha idéia de que a lenda do Santo Graal tinha passado pela América do Sul, adorei descobrir assim!

 

Arquitetura e Alquimia

Sua fachada é estreita e praticamente engolida pelos prédios à sua volta, mas isso não quer dizer que o castelo passe despercebido pelos transeuntes. No andar superior há uma escultura na forma da proa de um barco com uma réplica da Vitória de Samotrácia, que representa a “vitória da vida”.

No terraço existe uma torre parcialmente aberta, com acesso à estátua da Vitória de Samotrácia, onde ocorriam diversos tipos de cerimônias. É uma torre redonda com uma abertura circular no teto, e numa data específica as aberturas da torre formam a letra Tau com os raios do sol. Bem no centro da torre existe um tipo de “vibração” especial, ou seja, quando você se posiciona lá você ouve sua própria voz como se estivesse num microfone! Quando fiquei lá no meio eu senti uma energia muito forte, muito forte mesmo, cheguei a sentir um tipo de “peso” no peito e na garganta por quase uma hora depois de sair de lá. Não sei o nome desse fenômeno e não sei nem como procurar mais sobre ele, se souberem de algo do tipo por favor me falem.

O simbolismo está presente em cada centímetro do local: existem símbolos cristãos, templários, rozacruzes, e maçônicos, por exemplo. Cada conjunto deles conta uma história, geralmente narrando o ciclo da vida e a busca da perfeição. Há uma grande conexão com as formas geométricas, com desenhos remetendo à diversos números e letras, que são repetidos sistematicamente ao longo da construção – como é o caso da letra H {o próprio Humberto adicionou essa ao seu nome devido à importância da letra para a alquimia}.

 

Por dentro do Castelo

O interior, onde Humberto morava, lembra um labirinto – é praticamente impossível lembrar se você já passou por certo corredor ou quarto, já que todos são muito parecidos. O trabalho em madeira desses cômodos é de tirar o fôlego: todos os ambientes são revestidos e o teto é feito com madeira maciça, com vários cubos e elementos geométricos sobrepostos, criando um efeito visual imponente. A lareira é o ponto central da moradia, é inteira decorada com madeira entalhada, com símbolos que representam a viagem do homem ao entendimento.

O Castelo Atualmente

Hoje, o castelo sobrevive graças à iniciativa privada. Humberto doou o Castillo à prefeitura, mas esta o abandonou por vários anos e, com todo esse descaso, a arquitetura original do castelo acabou sofrendo: inúmeras peças foram roubadas e quebradas, e por causa da falta de fotografias e documentos é impossível saber o quanto foi perdido, dificultando até mesmo o processo de restauração.

“El padrón 32.697 en la 18ª. Sec. Jud. De Montevideo, con frente a la calle Fco. Vidal 638-640 y 640 Bis y Rbla. Wilson 635 por cláusula segunda del Testamento letra w) el inmueble es legado al Municipio de Montevideo, para ser destinado – de ser posible- a museo de acuarelas, grabados y esculturas. Se trata de la residencia del causante”. {Extraído do testamento de Humberto Pittamiglio}

A parte traseira do Castillo foi transformada em restaurante e uma das salas foi remodelada para ser um pequeno teatro. Uma coisa que me deixou completamente louca foi saber que, para complementar a renda do castelo, eles também locam o espaço para eventos sociais. Imagine que sonho casar num lugar mágico desses? Pena que é tão longe, parece que o Universo quer brincar com meus sentimentos.

Só é possível conhecer o Castillo por meio da visita guiada, que acontece de terça-feira a domingo, às 17h. O ingresso para a visita custou 180 pesos – um preço super razoável para quase duas horas de passeio. A visita é em espanhol, mas a guia que pegamos falava claramente e bem devagar, então até nós que falamos o básico do básico conseguimos entender tudo sem problema algum. Então, se você quer conhecer o local mas tem medo de se perder na hora das explicações não se preocupe, pois conseguirá aproveitar tranquilamente.

Nas redes sociais podemos acompanhar a agenda de atividades do castelo, que sempre conta com peças de teatro ou cursos como tarot, leitura de borra de café, oficina de contos de terror etc. Na época que visitei estava em cartaz uma peça noturna com vários contos do Edgar Allan Poe, que infelizmente não pude assistir – só pra vocês verem como vale a pena conhecer esse lugar. Também recomendo confirmar a visita guiada, já que quando pesquisei no TripAdvisor os horários li várias pessoas {preguiçosas cof cof} reclamando que chegaram lá e deram de cara com a porta fechada.

O que acharam desse lugar? Deu pra perceber que eu adorei, não é? Se por acaso forem passear em Montevideo, reservem uma tarde pra conhecer esse Castelo, tenho certeza que também vão amar.

Informações

Castillo Pittamiglio • Centro Cultural y Museo
Endereço: Rambla Mahatma Gandhi 633, 11300 Montevideo, Uruguay
Site Oficial
Telefone: 2710 1089 • 095-133-544

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Château de Versailles


The Château of Versailles was the center of political power in France from 1682 until the royal family was forced to return to the capital in 1789, after the beginning of the French Revolution. When the château was built, Versailles was a country village.

 







Chambre de la reine

 Galerie des Glaces






Versailles is a dream. It’s the most beautiful place I’ve ever been to & I highly doubt there will be a place I love more, no matter how much I try. The Château & the gardens are the exact representation of Heaven, in my opinion; if I die & won’t go to Versailles I’ll be seriously disappointed. One of the first things I did when I came back to Brazil was to watch Sofia Coppola’s “Marie-Antoinette” & it was awful: I cried & sobbed for over an hour. 

We took the train that connected Paris to the city & that’s where our surprises begun: the wagons’ walls are fully decorated with rococo ornaments, from flowers & birds to pink frills. The city itself is adorable {I’d define it as the ultimate suburbian dream} & it surrounds the château. The first thing you see are the golden gates & the vastness of the castle. After a few moments mesmerized outside, we got in; the chapel is the first room & the details are impressive {they do not allow visitors inside}. After going through a couple of rooms, we reached the Galerie des Glaces {I took the best mirror selfie ever} & yes, it’s as perfect as you imagine it. But I wasn’t satisfied yet: there was one more particular room I was willing to go – la Chambre de la Reine.

The Marie-Antoinette bedchamber is definitively the cherry on top of the cake; it’s more beautiful, elegant, dreamy & unbelievable than any other room. The ceilling, the wallpaper, the curtains, the chandeliers, the bed – bitch knew how to live! The clock in the middle of the mirror caught my attention {when I saw that in the movie I cried even louder}, but the bed is still my favorite thing about the room. 

The garden is epic, the lake is so extense there were rowing teams training; we sat there to rest & swans came to us, to make that moment even more unbelievable. We walked until the Petit Trianon, a small castle where Marie Antoinette lived too; unfortunatelly we had no time to go to le Grand Trianon nor le Domaine de Marie-Antoinette. 

No matter how much I try, I’ll never be able to translate what I lived there; it’s a dream – the most glorious & beautiful one – & if you wish enough like I did you’ll live it too.
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Montmartre & Moulin Rouge




Montmartre is a hill in the north of Paris, known for the white-domed Basilica of the Sacré Cœur on its summit & also famous as a bohemian district. Many artists had studios or worked around the community of Montmartre such as Henri de Tolouse-Lautrec, Salvador Dalí, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Piet Mondrian, Pablo Picasso & Vincent van Gogh. Montmartre is also the setting for several hit films, as the hipster mainstream Le fabuleux destin d’Amélie Poulain (who doesn’t remember le Café des 2 Moulins?).  






 

Moulin Rouge

Montmartre is amazing, it’s the iconic bohemian paradise. The moment we got out of the Abessess station I knew I was in heaven, I knew it was the place I would like to spend my days until this life was finished {I mean, if only I could do it one hundred years before, thought}. I’m utterly obsessed with Lautrec, he is my favorite painter since I was a little kid! I remember my mom had this notebook with “La Goulue” on it’s cover & I used to look at it & think it was the pretiest thing ever; I have no idea why, but the lines, colors & movement really caught my eye. It took me weeks to write this post & I failed to express all my feelings in words, but I’ll share them, anyway.

First things first: Abessess. I love the old Métropolitain style & this was the first station featuring it, I was the only weirdo taking pictures of it. When we started to walk around, what a pleasure! The streets & buildings are adorable, Montmarte is charming like no where else I’ve been to; we really have that feeling that we are not in this age anymore. Obviously nowadays we have no artists hanging out, only tourists & souvenir sellers, but I still can dream. We took an elevator to the Sacré Cœur because we were running out of time; unfortunatelly we only spent a couple of hours in Montmartre. The Basilica itself is not more beautiful than Notre Dame or Sainte- Chapelle, that we had already seen, so it wasn’t exactly a surprise. People were in fact a little rude, saying we couldn’t take pictures when we didn’t even have a camera in hands. Oh, & it’s more dangerous there than any other places in our whole trip, so you better watch out.


We decided to walk down the hill to appreciate the neighborhood & find the Moulin Rouge. Down on the streets, we got to see the Sacré Cœur all lighten up above us & it was truly impressive {you can see a charming manège in my picture}. Heading to the Moulin Rouge we passed by lots of sex shops & strip houses {again: heaven!} & since it’s our tradition to go to sex shops we jumped in. Oh my goth, I found so many cute stuff that I can’t find in Brazil! It’s worth the visit, even thought I didn’t find my Burlesque Hello Kitty mug.


Walking a little more I saw it: a moulin shaped neon! I cried a little, I must confess. The ticket was over my budget so I couldn’t get in, what a shame. I don’t care, tho. I can’t believe one century ago my favorite artist was drinking absynthe inside those walls, I traveled ten hours straight for that moment. Holy shit. I’m crying again. You’ll never understand how much I love him.


The bad thing about our little trip to Montparnasse is: we didn’t stay there much, I wish I had spent at least one whole day there. We didn’t even get to see le Café des 2 Moulins {on our trip to the airport later I saw that it was exatly on the street of the Moulin Rouge, so you have no idea how I wanted to cut myself when I found that out}.

My main goal is to go back to Paris to make that up.


P.S.:  “La Goulue” by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec {1891}.


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Sainte-Chapelle


La Sainte-Chapelle is a royal medieval Gothic chapel, marked by its sense of weightlessness & strong vertical emphasis. The interior is filled by the stained glass windows {including the famous rose window with flamboyant tracery} & every inch of the remaining wall surface is also richly coloured & decorated.


After visiting the Panthéon, we started the Gothic tour: the Sainte-Chapelle & Notre-Dame. On the Saint-Chapelle we first entered the lower chapel & we were a bit disappointed: it looked like a random medieval store, a small room with cute castles on the walls & a souvenir shop. We had no idea what was waiting for us when we stepped on that little stair towards the main chapel. Delight. I used to imagine during History of Art classes how amazing would be to see the lights inside a Gothic church with stained glasses & I finally saw that. I can’t describe how I felt looking at those incredible pieces of colorful glass touching the sky. I wonder how a person centuries ago used to feel inside these churches; being inside these walls do make any human believe in God.


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Musée de l’Orangerie & Jardin des Tuileries









The Jardin des Tuileries is a garden located between the Louvre Museum & the Place de la Concorde. It was created by Catherine de Medicis as the garden of the Tuileries Palace. In the 19th and 20th century, it was the place where Parisians celebrated, met, promenaded & relaxed

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Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel






Our first contact with the Musée du Louvre was actually kinda funny: we were walking in our first day in Paris looking for some place to have a picnic, saw that huge palace & had no idea what it was. We just came in, sat in a bench taking a look at the crows & when we were finished, we looked back to find a trash can & OH MY GOTH IS THAT THE PYRAMIDE DU LOUVRE? Yes, it was. We didn’t plan to visit the Musée that day, so we decided to take walk through the garden instead. When I was taking a picture of the Jardin du Carrousel I had my first sight of the Eiffel Tower {yes, Paris is that small}. I was so excited that day, I can remember everything perfectly. 

Most of these pictures are from outside the Musée du Louvre, but the Jardin goes until the Place de la Concorde. Tuileries is beautiful, the fact we traveled in Autumn made it even more amazing; those red & orange leaves falling down the trees, the cold wind in my face, drinking hot cocoa looking at the Gran Roue, all those adorable crows flying over us. Awn, it sure melted my goth girl’s heart. 

Still in the Jardin des Tuileries there is the Musée de l’Orangerie, an art gallery of impressionist & post-impressionist paintings, famous for being the permanent home for the Nymphéas by Claude Monet. The eight famous paintings are displayed in two oval rooms all along the walls {they were featured in Woody Allen’s film Midnight in Paris, I know you remember them}, but since we weren’t allowed to take pictures in that Musée I’ll have to share a pic I found online to show you the perfection of those rooms. The Museum also contains works by Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, among others. 



I must confess: the most amazing surprise for me was the Art In Fusion exhibition devoted to the legendary couple Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo. I was already familiarized with Kahlo’s work but it never had a real impact on me, but it drastically changed when I saw it live. Her paintings are gut wrenching & really impressive, not for the technique but for all the symbolisms & her own history; a cycle of life & death, revolution & religion, realism & mysticism. I confess I couldn’t hold the tears in front of that amazing collection; looking at Frida Kahlo with new eyes was definitively the best gift I got that day. 



My Grandparents, My Parents, and I {Family Tree}, Frida Kahlo, 1936.
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La Seine & Pont des Arts


La Seine is an extense river in the north of France & bifurcates the city of Paris into left & right banks {rive gauche & rive droite}. The beauty of the river not only captures our current imaginations: it has mesmerized & seduced since pre-medieval times; it has inspired many artists, as Henri Matisse, Claude Monet, Georges-Pierre Seurat & many others. There are 37 bridges within Paris, as the Pont Neuf, Pont des Arts & Pont Alexandre III.


Can someone explain why there’s a dinosaur & a skull full of butterflies at the Compagnie des Bateaux-Mouches?



Pont des Arts

The Pont des Arts is a bridge in Paris which crosses La Seine; it has been featured in numerous films & television shows. It links the Institut de France and the central square of the Palais du Louvre. In recent years, many tourist couples have taken to attaching padlocks {also known as “love locks”} with their first names written or engraved on them to the railing or the grate on the side of the bridge, then throwing the key into the Seine river below, as a romantic gesture. This gesture is said to represent a couple’s committed love.




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Palais de Tokyo




















The Palais de Tokyo was the most impressive contemporary art museum I’ve ever seen; in fact, it rejects the label “museum” & prefers to call itself a site “devoted to contemporary creativity”. The building is huge: more than 22.000m² of creative energy featured in all forms imaginable: from paintings & sculpture to projections & installations. After days & days visiting museums with “classic” art, visiting the Palais the Tokyo & the Centre Pompidou was a delicious {& much needed} breath of fresh air. Unfortunately I didn’t capture most of the artwork, basically because instalations don’t have the same impact on videos & they’re not as powerful so it didn’t make any sense; but I can say I had never experienced anything like that. The most memorable were the macabre doll writing with ink in a huge screen with really loud noises, the virtual doll talking to us & saying things like “I talk, you see & hear me but I don’t exist” {this was pretty disturbing}, the macro video featuring a black world – think about a black land, black grass, black sky {it was beautiful #gothgirlproblems}, a regular room that suddenly shut all the lights off & neon paintings were revealed in the walls as a piano started to play by itself & there was a fake bookshelf in the wall with a hidden passage to another room full of photographs & illustrations, the dark basement with broken lights {it was exactly like the places people go to get killed in horror movies}. The Palais the Tokyo left me speechless.

There’s always a Fashion Program in the basement, where the Palais explores innovative experiments in the field of fashion, creation or beauty. In my visit I was able to see “Virgule, etc.” featuring a retrospective exhibition of the work of Roger Vivier to celebrate its founder, reference in the history of fashion accessories. 

Another thing I loved about Palais de Tokyo was their restaurant & museum shop; it was filled with interesting art & photography books {I even found the Roger Ballen & Die Antwoord – I Fink U Freeky book!} among other things – that “Bansky” grafitti was on the shop! I bought myself a gorgeous & huge book from Mark Ryden, PINXIT, because well, I just had to. Me & my friend also took a pic at the FotoAutomat machine, like the ones in Amelie Poulain‘s; that pic definitively brings me one of my favorite memories from Paris.

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